North Cyprus is a haven for rock climbers, offering stunning landscapes and routes for all skill levels. Here’s a quick guide to the top spots:
- Garga Suyu: 43 sport routes near Girne with limestone crags and natural shade.
- Kyrenia Mountain Range: Challenging limestone cliffs with routes from 4+ to 8b.
- Pentadaktylos: Historic climbs with routes on the mountain’s "fingers."
- METU Campus Walls: Artificial climbing wall for practice and skill-building.
- Kantara Castle: Climbing amid historic ruins with panoramic views.
Best climbing season: November to April. Essential gear includes climbing shoes, rope, harness, helmet, and chalk. Mustafa Konica’s shop in Girne is a great resource for equipment and advice.
| Climbing Spot | Type of Climbing | Difficulty Range | Key Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Garga Suyu | Sport | 5.10- to 5.12- | Limestone crags, easy access |
| Kyrenia Mountain Range | Sport/Trad | 4+ to 8b | Tough cliffs, close to beaches |
| Pentadaktylos | Trad/Sport | S to VII+ | Historic routes, diverse terrain |
| METU Campus Walls | Artificial | Beginner to Advanced | Controlled environment |
| Kantara Castle | Trad/Sport | Moderate to Advanced | Historical ruins, scenic views |
Whether you’re a beginner or an expert, Northern Cyprus has something for everyone. Stay safe, check route conditions, and enjoy the climb!
Garga Rock Climbing Cyprus
1. Garga Suyu Climbing Area
Garga Suyu is where rock climbing in Northern Cyprus began. This limestone crag sits just 15 minutes east of Girne at an elevation of 1,469 ft (448 m) and offers 43 sport routes with varying levels of difficulty.
To get there, head uphill on Bes Parmaklar Cd from Girne, park at the first dirt pullout, and take a short 5-minute trail to the base. Its location near the highway makes it one of the easiest climbing spots to reach in Northern Cyprus.
The crag features a mix of vertical and overhanging limestone routes, with a striking cave formation adding to its appeal. Thanks to natural afternoon shade, it’s a comfortable summer destination, though it’s open for climbing year-round.
Here are some of the standout routes you’ll find at Garga Suyu:
| Route Name | Difficulty (YDS) | Style |
|---|---|---|
| Highway to Heaven | 5.10- | Sport |
| Gufi | 5.10b | Sport |
| Hermafrodit | 5.11a/b | Sport |
| Gabbar | 5.11d | Sport |
| Baragadi | 5.12- | Sport |
After a day of climbing, stop by the Buffavento restaurant nearby. It offers great food and stunning views of the Pentadactylos mountains, making it an ideal spot to unwind.
For updates on route conditions or gear recommendations, visit Mustafa Konica at Cyprus Outdoors Shop (19 Hilal Sokak, Girne).
Garga Suyu’s variety and accessibility make it a must-visit spot for climbers. Don’t stop here – there are even more routes to explore in the Kyrenia Mountain Range.
2. Kyrenia Mountain Range Routes
The Kyrenia Mountain Range is known for its tough limestone cliffs and steep vertical walls. Back in 2007, climbers Nazife "Nazo" Canıtez, İnan Taşlı, Tunç Fındık, and Doğan Palut were the first to establish routes here. These routes stand apart from those at Garga Suyu, offering a completely different set of technical challenges.
The crags in this range vary greatly, with standout spots like Red Balcony, Larnaka of Lapithos, and Vasileia. Climbers will find features such as pockets, tufas, roofs, caves, and crimps. The difficulty levels range from 4+ to 8b, and there are still many routes waiting for their first ascents.
For summer climbers, this area has the added perk of being close to Mediterranean beaches, making it easy to combine climbing sessions with a swim. Thanks to the durable dolomitic limestone, these routes are accessible throughout the year.
There are also beginner-friendly sectors that make it easy to transition from indoor to outdoor climbing. These areas feature clear paths and well-established anchors, making them ideal for those just starting out.
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3. Pentadaktylos Climbing Spots
The Pentadaktylos area in Northern Cyprus is home to climbing routes with roots going back to the 1960s. This mountain range is divided into sectors, each named after one of its finger-like peaks. Each sector offers its own set of challenges, making it a favorite for climbers seeking variety.
Last April, climber Hendy completed an impressive traverse of all five "fingers." This included scaling the 225-meter (740-foot) Thumb East Ridge (7 pitches), climbing the Clock Tower, tackling the 48-meter (157-foot) East Face of the Index Finger (3 pitches), ascending the Hunts Slab on the Second Finger (22 meters/72 feet), and summiting the 3rd and 4th fingers.
Here’s a quick look at some of the key sectors and their standout routes:
| Sector | Notable Routes | Difficulty Grade |
|---|---|---|
| Thumb | Thumb East Ridge | S 4a |
| Thumb Thing Different | E1 5a | |
| Index Finger | Normal Route | S |
| Meandering | VD | |
| 2nd Finger | Samuda | HS 4b |
| Poseidon | VII- |
The best climbing season runs from November through April, when temperatures are cooler. During the summer, early mornings and late afternoons are ideal for climbing. Keep in mind, some routes may have loose rock, especially in less-traveled areas. Always double-check route conditions and bring proper safety equipment for traditional climbing.
Pentadaktylos offers a mix of climbing styles, from straightforward crack climbs to more demanding overhangs. For beginners, the Clock Tower sector has moderate routes graded D. Experienced climbers can challenge themselves with routes like "Ultrarealistic" (VII+) on the 4th Finger or "The Thing" (HVS 5a). This variety adds to Northern Cyprus’s climbing scene, which includes both these traditional routes and sport climbing spots elsewhere in the region.
4. METU Northern Cyprus Campus Walls
METU’s campus climbing wall provides a controlled environment ideal for sharpening your climbing skills. Standing at 11 meters (36 feet), this outdoor artificial wall is perfect for both beginners and experienced climbers, offering a variety of routes to practice before tackling natural rock formations.
| Facility Features | Details |
|---|---|
| Wall Height | 11 meters (36 feet) |
| Location | Sports Center Complex |
| Support Facilities | Locker rooms, First aid office |
| Additional Amenities | Fitness hall, Cardio equipment |
The Sports Center also includes locker rooms, a first aid office, and a fitness hall equipped with cardio and weight training gear.
If you’re looking for more climbing options, Agama Outdoor, located nearby, features a 6-meter (20-foot) climbing wall with eight unique routes.
5. Kantara Castle Climbing Area
Sitting at an elevation of 550–600 meters in the Kyrenia mountain range, Kantara Castle combines historical intrigue with challenging climbs, all while offering sweeping views of Northern Cyprus. The site’s natural terrain and historical ruins make it a unique destination for climbers.
| Essential Information | Details |
|---|---|
| Elevation | 550–600 meters (1,800–1,970 feet) |
| Entrance Fee | 50 TL or €3 |
| Parking | Free parking near the castle entrance |
| Best Access Route | Via north coast (Kaplica Beach) on a new, two-lane road |
Access and Terrain
You can reach the castle easily via a newly built two-lane road from the north coast, passing through Kaplica Beach. The climb itself is not without challenges – expect narrow paths, uneven stairs, and areas with unprotected drops. These features demand careful navigation and adherence to safety precautions.
Safety Tips
- Wear proper climbing shoes and safety gear.
- Be cautious around open cisterns and steep drops.
- Check weather conditions, especially in exposed areas.
- Stay hydrated and carry enough water.
If you’re new to the area, the panoramic hiking trail is a great way to explore and get a feel for the climbing routes. To avoid the heat, plan your climb for early morning or late afternoon. Even at this height, sun protection is a must.
Building on the challenges of Garga Suyu and Pentadaktylos, Kantara Castle offers a historical setting that adds an extra layer of intrigue to its demanding climbs.
Conclusion
North Cyprus offers a wide range of rock climbing experiences. From the 43 routes at Garga Suyu to the historic climbs near Kantara Castle, the variety of terrain ensures there’s something for every climber.
Key Resources and Safety Tips
Before wrapping up your climbing journey, make sure you’re well-prepared with these resources and safety guidelines:
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Resources for Climbers:
- Check out Cyprus Rocks and UKC for sport climbing details.
- Use 27crags for detailed bouldering topos.
- Visit Mustafa Konica’s climbing gear shop in Girne for equipment and local advice.
"Climbing is inherently dangerous, it says so on every warning label attached to all the gear you buy. But it is so much more than an adrenaline fueled rush." – Max Lurie
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Safety Checklist:
- Partner Check: Always inspect harnesses, ropes, and belay devices before climbing.
- Gear Maintenance: Regularly check your equipment and retire anything worn out.
- Environmental Awareness: Be cautious of vipers and plants that can cause rashes, particularly in less-frequented areas.
- Emergency Preparedness: Keep emergency contacts handy and be aware that rescue services may be limited.
For accommodations, consider staying at Caesar Bay – Holidays in North Cyprus (https://caesarbay-nc.com). They offer private apartments for up to five people, complete with a pool, BBQ, playground, and proximity to the sea.
With its blend of climbing routes, historic landmarks, and stunning landscapes, Northern Cyprus is an incredible destination for climbers. Whether you’re scaling the overhanging limestone at Garga Suyu or testing your skills on the ancient walls of Kantara Castle, being prepared and respecting local climbing guidelines will ensure a safe and unforgettable adventure.
